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When beverage director Jason Eisner was asked to create an agave-only spirits program from the ground up at Gracias Madre, he jumped at the chance. The result is a bar, specifically a mezcaleria, that features more than 100 agave — and only agave — spirits, from tequila to mezcal to sotol. Rather than simply going the usual route of margaritas, palomas and spicy/muddled concoctions, the cocktails here range from serious to whimsical. The Build Your Own Old-Fashioned offers your choice of tequila or mezcal and house-made bitters; both La Quinceañera and the Blueberry Mezcal Mojito are served as snow cones. The term “tequila bar” may conjure up a dive-y hideaway or a bustling joint with blaring house music, but here the environment is mellow, whether at the cool-to-the-touch, wrap-around stone bar, the breezy, whitewashed dining room, or the tree-dotted patio. —Lesley Jacobs Solmonson

8905 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd., 90069. (323) 978-2170, graciasmadreweho.com.

LA Weekly