Slap the title of Best Taco Truck on a lonchero helmed by a former Alain Ducasse disciple who slings upscale tacos from the sidewalk of a third-wave coffee shop in the Arts District, and you can hear the pitchforks being sharpened. Those naysayers simply haven't had the pleasure of dining on tacos from Wes Avila's Guerrilla Tacos truck. His constantly rotating menu of inventive fare plays more like a sub-$20 tasting menu than a workaday taqueria, and it has earned the former chef de cuisine of Le Comptoir endless fans as a result. Ever-changing options might lean toward wild boar one day and uni the next, with Avila himself as the unifying theme. Carrying effortless style and endless creativity, the fine-dining chef turned street-food impresario mirrors his tacos in colorfulness and quality, while constantly changing the battle lines of what it means to serve street food in L.A. Guerrilla tacos, indeed. —Farley Elliott

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