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West Hollywood's RivaBella has always been short on understatement. The restaurant makes a startling showcase of its impressive indoor-outdoor space, which is among the best in Los Angeles, but when the risotto cart emerges from the kitchen, it galvanizes the room. Entire tables crane their necks to get a look at the 80-pound wheel of two-year aged Parmigiano Reggiano with the hole carved into the center. That's where the risotto's aged organic Acquerello rice goes, still steaming from its slow cook in the kitchen. Worked tableside, the creamy rice gets imbued with all of that aged cheesy goodness, plus handfuls of mushrooms, direct from Italy. For a final decadent punch, funky black truffles can be shaved directly on top of the risotto al funghi porcini finito al tavolo — for an equally audacious price, of course. —Farley Elliott

9201 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., 90069. (310) 278-2060, innovativedining.com.

LA Weekly