A trip to Jitlada is for many Angelenos a kind of pilgrimage. If you love Thai food, particularly Southern Thai in its many degrees of spiciness, from pleasant to outrageous, you come for the curries that Suthiporn (Tui) Sungkamee makes from scratch in the back, curries that date from when he was about 13 and started cooking at home (he's never cooked at a restaurant not his own). If you love The Simpsons, you come to eat your green curry mussels under one of the many drawings that longtime regular Matt Groening has given to the restaurant. If you love danger, you come for the Dynamite Challenge, an absurdly spicy dish that Sungkamee put on the menu about four years ago, for fun or maybe just to hear people scream. If you love burgers, you come to persuade Sungkamee's sister Sarintip (Jazz) Singsanong to make you one of her special Thai hamburgers. But if you love everything here, as many of us do, you seem to come most often for the Morning Glory salad, a soothing plate of tempura-fried greens combined with onions and shrimp and fresh herbs in a syrupy tart sauce. It's neither as intricate nor as dangerous as the two or three hundred other things Sungkamee might conceivably make for you, but it's a fantastic dish that may well be the most addictive thing in the restaurant. Well, other than Ryan Gosling. —Amy Scattergood

5233½ Sunset Blvd., Hlywd., 90027. (323) 667-9809, jitladala.com.

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