At Night + Market, which chef Kris Yenbamroong opened in the space next to his parent's established Thai restaurant as a kind of act of guerrilla restaurateurism, he presents the unadulterated, riotous flavors of Northern Thailand's street food in all their complexity. On any given night, his menu is likely to include pig's tails, white-pepper frog's legs, sour pork sausage and larb made with “dried herbs smuggled back from Chiang Rai in a suitcase.” The meal's stinky-salty-offal component actually is far less challenging than the intense heat levels of most dishes, but don't let any of this dissuade you. No, really: This is some of the most astonishing, delicious food available anywhere. With a second location opening later this fall in the perhaps better-suited neighborhood of Silver Lake, Yenbamroong promises to make his vision of country Thai–meets-L.A. even more distinct. We can't wait. 9041 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd. (310) 275-9724, —Besha Rodell

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