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With its everything-old-is-new-again décor and drinks philosophy, Melrose Umbrella Company offers itself up as a quirky glimpse into a post-Prohibition bar — with a newfangled view of cocktail fun. The menu features a stable of classic drinks for those who like to swig it old-school. But it's with the modern riffs — on everything from tiki to the shandy to fruit- and vegetable-based drinks — that the bar's artistry really shines. The owners' intent seems to be to create an ever-evolving volume of drinks, which change both seasonally and thematically. The Fernet Branca on draft, served tongue-in-cheek in demitasse cups, brings in the bartending set and pretty much everyone else needing a digestif after downing a gluttonously glorious grilled cheese sandwich from Greenspan's, conveniently located next door. —Lesley Jacobs Solmonson

7465 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd., 90046. (323) 951-0709, melroseumbrellaco.com.

LA Weekly