There is a lot to love about a Southern California success story like Hollywood Pies. What started as an underground, Chicago-inspired pizza-delivery service quickly gained must-have, cult status. In a smart move, it then morphed into a well-thought-out shop for eat-in, pick-up or delivery around the Pico/La Cienega location. What's offered by the cheerful kitchen is no chain-store pie. Using high-quality ingredients (rich and flavorful tomatoes, Italian sausage) and a truly deft hand, the obsession-worthy dish comes in eight varieties. Make sure to order the Hollywood, layered with whole-milk mozzarella, house-made ricotta and Italian meatballs, which lives up to its name, being tangy, oh so rich and outwardly ballsy.  No matter what you try, remember this is deep dish — a knife and fork, and a whole lot of napkins, are required. 6116 W. Pico Blvd., Mid-City. (323) 337-3212, —Rachael Narins

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