The shmears are solid and the bagels are better than good — thick, chewy and dense, like doing a math problem with your teeth — but the real innovations at Original Brooklyn Water Bagel Co. are the frozen coffee cubes. On a scorching 100-degree day, when your iced coffee demands as much frozen matter as it does liquid, who wants ice cubes made of water diluting your rocket fuel? The iced coffee isn't complex. It doesn't evoke subtle notes of peaberry and smoked cinnamon. It does, however, come with free coffee cubes. Now, if only bars would take the hint and start making bourbon cubes. 262 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 786-7400,

—Elina Shatkin

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