With its massive green-onion pancakes and one of the best versions of Taiwanese beef noodle soup in town, Ahgoo Kitchen is easy to adore. Chef Thomas Yeh has been cooking since he was 16 years old, and there's a lot of love that goes into the fare. His menu is a hodgepodge of all sorts of Chinese and Taiwanese dishes, with dough and seafood as the highlights. Yeh's wife, who's from China, makes the green-onion pancakes from scratch and folds the dumplings. In addition to that pancake, you should start with a combination cold platter: a heap of offal and bean curd layered with spices. The ever-popular beef roll is on the menu, too, along with fried fish with seaweed (the Chinese answer to fish and chips) and wonderfully seasoned fish-and-leek dumplings. It's the type of food that can be found at street vendors in Taiwan and China, great for a quick lunch or a hearty dinner.

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