For that Sunday morning carnal craving, the smoky bacon Bloody Mary (bacon-infused gin, fresh tomato juice, a bacon slice for garnish) at Fig at the Fairmont Hotel definitely has the meat advantage. To our surprise, we even found the fresh tomato and watermelon juice version, which sounded like entirely too “pretty” a cocktail, to be a nice light refresher (even if we wouldn't call it a Bloody Mary). But we're going to have to crown “Richard's Secret Recipe,” the restaurant's classic version, as the Bloody Mary winner. Richard is Richard Horne, whom you are likely to find behind the bar on any given Sunday, so it's wise to be nice to him. Be sure to ask him about his Bloody Mary vodka preferences. Just don't ask him, as we did, if it really matters what brand you use — doesn't the tomato juice cover up that clean vodka flavor? It does matter to Horne. Which is why you want him, not anyone else behind the bar at Fig, to make your cocktail. As for the drink itself, this isn't a dark red, cocktail sauce–inspired number but a fresh-tasting tomato version with a balanced hand on the fresh horseradish and spices. Or so we surmise, as like most Bloody Mary devotees, Horne is keeping mum on his secret recipe. 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 319-3111,
—Jenn Garbee

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