Q: I am trying to find a nice restaurant in Los Angeles that serves caviar, and am having a tough time of it. My husband’s birthday is coming up, and I would love to surprise him with an evening out — money is not an object. Any suggestions, or will I have to leave town to find the good stuff?


A: Caviar purists of my acquaintance tend to gravitate toward Caviarteria in Beverly Hills, some of them armed with trowels. And the local platinum-card set mourned the day that chef Ken Frank relocated to the Napa Valley — his potato rosti with triple-zero beluga rated somewhere back of beyond. But Diaghilev, the swank Russian restaurant in the Bel Age Hotel, is practically a machine designed to ease the consumption of caviar, an intimate nest of mirrors, candlelight, crystal, champagne and chilled vodka, and a caviar service that includes blini, melted butter — the works. Bring money. 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 854-1111.

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