QUESTION: What is your favorite taco truck in Los
Angeles, within city limits? If we are talking some sort of phenomenon of a
taco, I might be willing to travel far and wide.

—Lana Kitto, Los Angeles

ANSWER: For some reason, most tacos do tend to taste
better when you get them from really popular trucks. They’re fresher, for one
thing — the huge turnover helps, plus the fact that the tacos are made only
inches from where you stand. I love the La Estrella truck that parks on Fair
Oaks Avenue near Villa Street in Pasadena at night, the truck that parks across
from the Tropicana on Western, and many, many of the trucks that line Olympic
Boulevard in East L.A. late at night, especially the ones that have set up huge,
bootleg grills. But my favorite is still the truck that parks behind El Taurino,
on Hoover near Olympic, on weekends. The extra-spicy pork al pastor, sizzled
to a crisp on a rotating vertical spit and sliced off to order as if for a gyro
sanctioned by the devil herself, is grand beyond description. Get half a dozen
at least — any fewer, and they’ll never make it out of the parking lot.

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