Also Read: Jonathan Gold's take on last year's Breadbar guest chef Noriyuki Sugie at its Century City location.
On the third night of Ludo Bites, the restaurant ran out of food. And I don't mean it sold out of a dish or two, or that it closed a bit early — it ran out of pretty much everything, so that when we dropped by (with reservations) after the end of the Lakers game, almost nothing on the $39 prix-fixe menu was actually available, and I'm sure that at least some of what we ended up eating was supposed to go to staff meal or on sandwiches the next day. You've got to give it to Ludovic Lefebvre, the Pierre Gagnaire protégée, once the chef at Bastide and l'Orangerie, who has returned to the original Third Street Breadbar from Las Vegas to run Ludo Bites for a limited three-month stretch. He still managed to scrounge up one of the best meals I've had so far this year.
Continue reading First Bite: The Return of Ludo Bites at laweekly.com.