There are many kinds of food in the world, as Frances the Badger once said, and they all taste different ways. Some of these foods are more or less spherical in nature. And many of these spheres, as we all know, may reasonably be described as balls: meatballs, fish balls, gumballs, malted milk balls, and the rum balls your mom's friend used to bring to canasta night. I understand that these spheres have lately become important to local cuisine, and that Test Kitchen recently had an entire evening devoted to them. The fried chicken from the Ludo Truck and those tofu things from Starry Kitchen are round too, and we like those a lot. But if it's really not too much trouble, could we all declare a moratorium on implicit comparisons between spherical foods and the male anatomy? Thanks. It would mean a lot.

Your pal,


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