L’Oréal’s mass-market “clean-beauty” image is clashing with what one of the companies under their umbrella is doing. Urban Decay has launched a bold new campaign featuring OnlyFans creator Ari Kytsya. Questions about corporate values and influencer ethics are flying, and the company is facing widespread criticism for not shutting down the collab.

Founded in 1909, L’Oréal is the world’s largest cosmetics company. Per their brand values, they aim to champion safety, efficacy, empowerment, and diversity (think the “Because You’re Worth It” campaign). They maintain a public commitment to “Integrity, Respect, Courage, and Transparency,” insisting that all of their influencers must align with these values. They have also traditionally stated that their influencers must not have posted pornography or content that is at odds with their sense of respect, tolerance, or inclusion.

Urban Decay was launched in 1996 as a L’Oréal offshoot brand. It was developed to be an edgier company that disrupted the flood of pink and red monotony found on most beauty counters at the time. Founders included Wende Zomnir and tech entrepreneur Sandy Lerner. Their early slogan, “Does pink make you puke?” set the tone for how they wanted to be perceived — fun, subversive, and all about a rock-and-roll attitude. They quickly became known for their bold product names like “Perversion” eyeliner and “All Nighter” setting spray. The iconic Naked palette launched in 2010 and sold no fewer than 30 million units. It was so wildly popular that they later relaunched it with a more vegan-friendly formula. As a brand, Urban Decay embodied provocation. Celebrity collabs, edgy names, and culture shock have always been part of their DNA.

As part of Urban Decay’s new “anti-bland” campaign, the brand partnered with well-known OnlyFans star Ari Kytsya. Ads feature the tongue-in-cheek tagline “UD likes it raw,” pixelated images to make them seem naughtier than they are, and references to “uncensored makeup… on mattresses.” Critics were quick to point to the parent company’s Value Charter, which has a clause prohibiting influencers who have previously been involved in pornographic content from representing the brand. Critics see the collab as a direct conflict with that policy. The Fawcett Society has also warned that this move risks normalizing adult content for teenage audiences and encourages unrealistic expectations about OnlyFans’ financial opportunities.

Urban Decay has stood by their decision, as has L’Oréal. They cite Kytsya’s authenticity and transparency about the inherent risks of the industry as a key factor in their choice of influencer. They also credit her with bringing more diversity to the brand, which aligns with another of their stated values. Where most companies might be concerned with making nice with the general public, L’Oréal appears to be embracing the opportunity to bring an open conversation about sex work into beauty marketing. Some supporters applaud Urban Decay’s choice as a step toward reducing the stigma surrounding sex work. With Urban Decay’s provocative and inclusive branding, the controversy could fuel even greater visibility.

L’Oréal’s strict ethical code and Urban Decay’s edgy branding have been a source of tension since the offshoot appeared on the scene in 1996. Brands crave visibility, and with Urban Decay built as an alternative to “vanilla” makeup companies, courting controversy is a logical marketing choice. While critics continue to raise concerns over a brand popular with teens elevating an adult content creator, the message of empowerment and embracing one’s true self remains unchanged. Whether L’Oréal’s stance on supporting the collab will sustain credibility or backfire is something consumers will want to keep an eye on.