Garrett SnyderCelebrating this year's Best of L.A. issue — now out in print and online — we're counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.
24: Coconut Bavarois at Red Medicine.
Red Medicine is a complicated place. After a year existing in the shadow of it's infamous critic controversy — in which the owners tweeted pictures of then L.A. Times critic S. Irene Virbila — the restaurant finally began to develop into one of the hippest places to eat along Beverly Hills' restaurant row.
Chef Jordan Kahn plays the tortured artist/chef card well, working for weeks without a day off and keeping his kitchen staff to a bare, but overworked, minimum. Many of the dishes at Red Medicine are exquisite to look at, but Kahn's expertise shines through most with his desserts — considering he made a name for himself as the pastry chef at the short-lived Michael Mina spot XIV, this might not come as a surprise.
Red Medicine's signature dessert is probably the coconut bavarois, which might either arrive in a clear eight-inch tall glass or a wide-mouthed white bowl, depending on the night. On the bottom is a rich custard made of coconut milk, then a small quenelle of coffee ice cream and drizzle of condensed milk, then a spoonful of crushed, freeze-dried chicory. Finishing things off are some slippery Thai basil seeds, a dot of basil pureé (or occasionally leaves) and some crumbly shards of what Kahn calls peanut croquant.
In the simplest description, Kahn has condensed the flavors of a Vietnamese iced coffee in a single dessert. Just sweet enough, and with a twinge of bitterness from the coffee and chicory. If the restaurant ever sold the croquant on it's own, which tastes remarkably similar to the stuff you find inside a Nutter Butter cookie, then it would probably be stuffed into every holiday gift bag in town. It is very rare that a dessert can alter the course of an entire meal, making you forget, say, a dry piece of lamb shoulder. Kahn's bavarois will make you do more than forget; it will have you questioning why you didn't order dessert first.
Check out the rest of our 100 of our favorite dishes. Suggestion? Write us a comment.
100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles
99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1
98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil
96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche
94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa
93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen
92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord
90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame
89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence
88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market
87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane
85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post
84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun
83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co
81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza
80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant
79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan
78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat
77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho
74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense
73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses
72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms
71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King
70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away
69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ
68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House
67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata
66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen
65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh
64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers
63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow
62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill
61: Going Dutch Panini at Bread Lounge
60: Huckleberry's Green Eggs & Ham
59: Pickled Watermelon Salad at L&E Oyster Bar
58: Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe and Truffles at n/naka
57: Brown Brown Bread Ice Cream at Scoops Westside
56: Smothered Chicken at R and R Soul Food
53: The Sycamore Kitchen's Double BLT-A Sandwich
52: House Wonton Soup at China Cafe
51: Almond Croissant at Proof Bakery
50: The Southern Fry at Plan Check Kitchen + Bar
49: The Dodger Dog at Dodger Stadium
47: Lucky Baldwins' Traditional Full English Breakfast
46: Edomae Tendon Bowl at Hannosuke
45: The Pescado Zarandeado at Coni'Seafood
43: Raw Kale Salad at Elf Cafe
42: Steak Tartare Tacos at MessHall
40: Sicilian Slice at Pizzanista
39: Grilled Baby Goat T-bone at Mozza's Scuola di Pizza Salumi Bar
37: The Island Combo at TiGeorges' Chicken
36: Tacos Al Pastor at Tacos Leo
35: “Sandwich” at Roma Italian Deli
33: Cauliflower T-Bone at Superba Snack Bar
32: Pupusa Revuelta at Atlacatl
31: Bonjiri Yakitori at Kokekokko
30: Crispy Pork with Morning Glory at Crispy Pork Gang & Grill
29: Sashimi Special at Sushi Gen
28: Tamal de Mole Negro at Guelaguetza
27: The Hickoryburger at Apple Pan
26: Lobster Thermidor at Musso & Frank's
25: Poached Pear Coupe at Tavern
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