This week Jonathan Gold heads to Boyle Heights to visit Guisados, where he finds chiles torreados, tortillas made at the bakery nextdoor from large basins of nixtamal, and, it would seem, some fairly decent tacos.

It is a taco that could go 15 rounds with Oscar De La Hoya. It is a taco that could play badass trumpet in a mariachi band and sing sweet love songs to your girlfriend. It is a taco that will sneak out of the house in the middle of the night to do things that no taco should ever do, but you will always take it back, because you have tasted the complexity that lies three layers down.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Badass Taco,” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.

LA Weekly