A pint of lager and bacon-cheddar pierogis inside a 99-year-old public market?

No, you're not in Cleveland or some other Rust Belt city with a strong Polish heritage; you're in downtown's Grand Central Market, where the diverse array of food and drink options (pastrami, pizza, falafel, vegan ramen, tacos, fresh pasta, ceviche, burgers) grows more appetizing each month.

The latest entrant is the long-awaited beer bar and dining counter from L.A.'s Golden Road Brewing. Set alongside the market's Hill Street entrance in a space formerly occupied by a pharmacist's counter, it boasts 20 gleaming beer taps in front of black letterboards that detail what's being currently poured, ranging from Golden Road's core beers like Wolf Among Weeds IPA and the 329 Lager to specialty releases, such as its Batch 2000 extra special brown ale or raspberry-spiked Belgian Single.

The inspiration for the food menu comes from the Czech Republic, where Golden Road chef Adam Levoe fell in love with pierogi, those doughy Eastern European stuffed dumplings that are pan-fried or boiled. At Golden Road at Grand Central Market, there are pierogi, filled with pork shank and roasted apples; wild mushrooms, spinach and onion; or soyrizo, corn and vegan cream cheese. For dessert, try the berry compote and ricotta or peanut butter, banana and bacon versions. An order of three will run you $6 to $7 and comes with an extra topping or dipping sauce, which might mean corn guacamole, cumin sour cream, pineapple-habanero salsa or a dollop of apple sauce. You'll also find a rotating selection of hot and cold sides, and yogurt parfaits are available during breakfast hours.

Golden Road is currently open only during market hours, which means until 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, and beer is available only to drink at the bar, though there are plans for growler fills and take-away beer sales in the future.

Golden Road Brewing at Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway, downtown; goldenroad.la.

Credit: Courtesy Golden Road Brewing

Credit: Courtesy Golden Road Brewing

LA Weekly