Petrossian is a caviar emporium, with locations in Europe, New York, Las Vegas and Los Angeles. It is certainly associated with opulence. And very high prices. Caviar should be expensive, after all, given the work and the animals involved in getting it from sea to table.

But extremely high-end restaurants don't leave much of a mark in Los Angeles, especially these days, when burgers and dumplings and tacos take up most of our brain and stomach space. So Petrossian is getting into the casual game. Behold: caviar frites.

This is something of a confusing concept. After all, shouldn't caviar be a rare treat? Something to be enjoyed only on special occasions? Well, maybe that's old thinking. The apocalypse is coming — have some caviar.

The french fries come topped with crème fraîche, red and green onions and three types of caviar. In a way, it's just a transfer of the traditional caviar setup from blini to fry. And it's reminiscent of fish and chips, when you think about it. Though it costs $36.

In L.A., there are no rules. Hey, throw caviar in a burrito, too!

321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 271-6300,

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