When you think of waffles, you think of breakfast. When you think of sandwiches, you think of lunch. By that logic, the waffle sandwich is the perfect hybrid of breakfast and lunch. The cafe Shaky Alibi, on a tony stretch of Beverly Blvd. just across the street from Kokomo and their Kobb Sandwich, specializes in Liege waffles, which is to say small, round, thick, chewy waffles studded with nubbins of Belgian pearl sugar. Their signature is the dessert waffle, but they also make a savory waffle sandwich with cheese and your choice of turkey, ham or Canadian bacon. It's perfectly satisfactory, but it may also convince you of the superiority of the sweet over the savory waffle. (The smoked turkey works especially well with the smoked Gouda.)

Shaky Alibi: Turkey & Gouda Waffle Sandwich

Beyond the age of 8, you don't generally get to pick up your waffles with your hands. That may be the main pleasure of the waffle sandwich. In other words, the ideal way to eat one of these is to tear it open, extract the meat and cheese, and save one of the waffles for dessert.

Shaky Alibi: Interior

Put a European city in front of anything, and it sounds more posh. (Lisbon lentils, Istanbul eggplant, Cardiff toast, see?) The waffles at Shaky Alibi good, but these Liege waffles, supposedly so different from standard waffles, are, in fact, just small, thick, high-quality waffles with bits of sugar. At $9 per sandwich, they're not cheap and they're small. (To be clear, we're totally willing to pay $16 for a sandwich, but preferably when it's Sotto's porcetto.) They're hardly revolutionary a la the Paris Commune or Ulysses, but layered with cheese and lunchmeat, Shaky Alibi's waffles make a fine sandwich, even if they are better off with chocolate, strawberries and cream.


Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at eshatkin@laweekly.com.

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