Have you ever tasted the fried potatoes at Little Dom's? Because they're really pretty extraordinary: little new potatoes boiled to a point just short of squishiness, then whacked with a heavy object, popped into the deep fryer until they resemble frizzled river rocks, and tossed imperfectly with lemon and plenty of minced raw garlic — the potatoes become soft and crunchy, salty and sweet, mined with almost random depth charges of garlic pungency and puckering sourness, which make your soft palate bounce like the ball in a game of pachinko. And that's not even considering the real likelihood that the first potato or two will scorch the roof of your mouth.

Read the rest of Dom's and Subs, this week's Counter Intelligence at laweekly.com.

And for MORE PHOTOS of Little Dom's, including scenes of chef Brandon Boudet in the kitchen, check Anne Fishbein's slideshow at laweekly.com.

LA Weekly