Under the awning of a decaying mini-mall last Saturday, past the samples cart, around the shuttered barbecue stand and tailing out into the sunbaked parking lot, hundreds of people patiently waited for a peek at the new Bulgarini, hungry for the fragrant Sicilian pistachio gelato, the vivid blood orange sorbetto, the subtle cinnamon cream for which Leo Bulgarini and Elizabeth Foldi are reknowned, plus infinite, patient free tastes. Fans have spent months chasing the couple from museum courtyard to theater lobby to university quad, hoping to catch a cup of their elusive gelato, which is cool and smooth as a sigh. Finally there is a permanent location, at the very top of Altadena, tucked behind a RiteAid and an auto parts store, the last taste of civilization and decent espresso before the Los Angeles basin fades into the steep San Gabriel front range. Unless you’re lucky enough to live in Altadena or the upper reaches of Pasadena, the new shop could hardly be less convenient, but the faithful could scarcely care less. 749 E. Altadena Dr. Altadena, (626) 441-2319.

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