The Counter's newest location very obviously marks the Burger Era's firm supplanting of the Age of Baja Fresh's over-expansion. That's because the custom burger joint just took over the Mexican fast food spot's former place on Sunset just west of Fairfax.

Folks might continue to line up at the Griddle across the street, but hungry hordes began pouring into the bright white, gray and dusty blue toned room at the northeast corner of Sunset and Hayworth during the Counter's soft opening over the weekend. By the official opening date yesterday, the Counter's menu clipboards and golf pencils were getting put through their paces. Almost every seat indoors and out during prime lunchtime hour was filled with customers checking off their preferred patties, buns vs. lettuce-filled bowls, condiments and toppings. Not to mention plates of fries (regular and sweet potato) and onion strings, along with other sides and desserts.

Since this is the Counter's seventh location, they've got the efficient, crowd-pleasing formula down pat, with attentive and polite service completely in place by opening day. Yet given the WeHo location's “Market Selection” program that includes ingredients such as ahi tuna, fresh mozzarella, wasabi aioli, and artisan buns, they might want to find better ripened tomatoes. The Counter also has a wine list and serves Stella, Arrogant Bastard, Fat Tire, Blue Moon, Haywire, and Hoegaarden on tap. It's open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. until midnight.

The Counter: 7919 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles/WeHo adjacent; (323) 436-3844.

LA Weekly