The only thing missing from Twin Castle's sign is “pastrami.” But fear not, the tiny North Hollywood storefront does offer it, along with the other Southern California fast-food must-haves like burritos, teriyaki and burgers. Plus fried rice — but the teriyaki is served with French fries, not with rice. The owners know what customers want before the customers even know.

The restaurant also serves milkshakes, and it's attached to a doughnut shop; you can even enter through the doughnut shop and order in there. But better to go the savory route here. Specifically, you'll want to order either the teriyaki burger or the teriyaki chicken burger. (When is it a burger, and when is it a sandwich? We may never find an objective truth.)

The burgers come, in true West Coast style, with a large amount of tomato and onion slices, and whole-leaf iceberg lettuce. You could add mixed bell peppers, if you wanted to make it even more vegetable-y. I'd guess that the teriyaki sauce comes from a store-bought gallon, and that the cooks fancy it up a little in the kitchen. It's not too cloying, as this sauce often can be.

The better choice between the two, in my opinion, is the chicken burger, and absolutely you should eat it in the parking lot. Just pretend the hum of traffic is the ocean. That's what everyone in the Valley does.

4400 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood; (818) 985-8368.

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