This week's restaurant review is of ink., Michael Voltaggio's Melrose Avenue restaurant that was recently named the best new restaurant in the country by GQ. We'd love it if you, you know, READ THE REVIEW, but if you're too LAZY OR WHATEVER, here's a few things you should know about the restaurant.
Food: Super modern but easy to approach. From the review: “Eating like this is sheer playtime, a kind of whimsical romp where you can at once be awed by your food and not have to think too hard about it.”
Drinks: Great, playful cocktails, and a wine list that's as fun to peruse as it is to drink. From the review: “There are wines from Slovenia and Hungary, glorious bottles of $200 Burgundy and weird $35 bottles of something from Croatia you've never heard of but are glad your tattooed, Rolexed waiter pointed out to you.”
Looks: Inky. From the review: “The setup of the place forms a quite literal stage: A diagonal open kitchen faces a room draped in dark gray paint. It's a play on the name, of course, to saturate the whole restaurant in inky heft, but it also allows the glow emanating from that kitchen window to illuminate Voltaggio as he works.”
Price: Plates range from $9-$26. You probably want about three plates per person, or more if you're looking for a romp. A five-course tasting is available for $85 per person.
Takeaway: This place is pure fun. It's an impressive place to take a date, and you'll certainly be able to talk about the food if it turns out you have nothing else to talk about. There are some definite missteps on the menu, but far more that works. This is dining as modern theater.
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