This week's restaurant review takes a look at Black Hogg, a tiny Silver Lake restaurant that immediately garnered the affection of the neighborhood when it opened in March of last year. After a three-month closing for a renovation to comply with liquor license rules, Black Hogg reopened in November. You can read the full review here, or get the condensed version below.
Food: Chef Eric Park hews closely to the dude-food model, that is, a lot of butter, a lot of meat. So there's pork belly tacos and chicken livers on toast and — wait for it — deep-fried bacon with maple dipping sauce. All of this can be fun, but it veers quickly into overkill. There's also a lack of technique that speaks to the pitfalls of a head chef who has very little real kitchen experience (you'll have to read the full review to get the lowdown on Park's history).
Drinks: There's a short beer and wine list, both with some fun, trendy picks on them. The food pairs better with the beers on hand than the wines offered. Through January, you can bring in a bottle purchased at Silver Lake Wine and pay no corkage fee.
Vibe: This is a tiny spot on Sunset, sparsely decorated. One evening, an older gentleman came in and objected to his table by the door, and then remarked that the only other option was a table by the kitchen because that's really how tiny the space is. The music is very loud, usually a mix of hip hop and hipster favorites like the National. It's a truly fun and casual atmosphere.
Service: Young, plaid-shirt wearing, superfriendly.
Takeaway: One star (fair). Park has hit on a good location and aesthetic for this neighborhood, but so much of his cooking is overly salty and fatty, or just not prepared very well. A fun place to grab a bite at the bar, but not a destination.
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