At 5:28 p.m. on a Wednesday, the doors of Tar & Roses are locked. One by one, men in suits and groups of women in cocktail dresses approach the doors on the corner of Wilshire and Sixth Street in Santa Monica and pull, with no luck. Inside, behind the host stand, the hostess gazes at the reservation book with a concentrated quietude. At 5:30, she glides down the short ramp to the door and allows us inside. Read the story.