Sometimes, between the stacks of sliced beef dipped in their own jus and the crisp-skinned hunks of tender roasted pork, even we need to eat a healthy sandwich. When True Food Kitchen opened in May, complete with the imprimatur of integrative medicine proponent and international beard model Dr. Andrew Weil, we were wowed by the lovely design and soothing chartreuse color scheme. We were more skeptical of the food.
“Health food” tends to be earnest but bland, fibrous yet dull, and laden with bell peppers, the crutch of middling vegetarian chefs. Mercifully, the signature sandwich at TFK is none of these things.
The shaved turkey sandwich is an organized mound of thinly sliced turkey on a thick, warm fluffy pita. A bed of cucumbers, shaved even more thinly than the turkey, adds crunch. Among the diced tomatoes and onions, you'll find a grape or two — for pizzazz. The whole thing gets a subtle jolt from a lemon-tinged dressing. Described on the menu as yogurt dressing, it feels so light and is so sparingly applied, it adds none of the heavy goop that such condiments often bestow.
The sandwich comes with your choice of kale salad or roasted squash. For $12, it actually left us satisfied — another rarity at most health food restaurants. True Food Kitchen's shaved turkey sandwich is simple enough, but sometimes, simple is enough.
Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org.