Anybody who has internalized the concept of Maximal Meat has probably stopped by a Brazilian-style rodizio restaurant at one time or another, an establishment that will serve you bits of barbecued cow flesh, sliced off of menacing-looking skewers, until you explode. It can be kind of plain Brazilian barbecue, but it does the job. Now comes Bella Vista, in a corner of Culver City that has become more or less Little Brazil, which adapts the rodizio concept to pizza instead of charcoal-grilled animal.

What this means is that every few minutes a waitress comes around to your table with a plateful of sliced pie, thin wedges of pizza topped with smoked sausage and hearts of palm; grilled eggplant with green olives; beef stroganoff with potato sticks; zucchini with pesto; chicken with corn; and fried bananas, among many, many things, which are dealt onto your plate almost like cards. As an idea, rodizio pizza is a wonderful thing, an opportunity to taste a lot more pizza than is generally healthy or prudent. In practice, the pizza tends to be a bit too long from the oven, and what you're tasting can occasionally seem like a science experiment in degrees of reheating than it does in a primer in the flavors of Brazil. But for $14.99 a person, what the hell.

BELLA VISTA: 10826 Venice Blvd., Culver City. (310) 558-2374. Open daily, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. MC, V. No alcohol. Lot parking. Takeout.

LA Weekly