Philippe is a new-generation offshoot of Mr. Chow, which is to say it serves the kind of Chinese food that would have passed muster in London in the swingin’ ’60s: cubes of “Beijing’’ chicken breast burnished with syrup; soupless soup dumplings; chewy pan-fried noodles; and a weirdly compelling dish of crisp, shredded vegetation that billows from the plate like green rabbit bedding but tastes mostly of clean oil. Would the seat belt–width chicken satay with cream sauce wow the folks at Giang Nan? Perhaps not. But are you going to see Diddy, Young Jeezy or Mariah with mancessory Nick eating jellyfish head in Monterey Park? Dream on.
PHILIPPE: 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A. (323) 951-1100, philippechow.com. Lunch Mon.-Fri., noon-4 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat., 6 p.m.-mid.; Sun., 3 p.m.-mid. Full bar. First courses, $10-$29; main courses, $44-$75 (for two); $20.10 prix-fixe lunch.
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