Palate Food + Wine, a restaurant towards which we feel a great amount of affection, just announced its new Offal Wednesdays, in the spirit of its Tuesday Cirque de Fromage – a concept of which we are no less fond. Because while some people are becoming alarmed at the recent profusion of ears and snouts and trotters in the better sort of Los Angeles restaurants, we see it as only a good thing.

Each order of bone marrow with kimchi and fried quail eggs, or brain ravioli with ricotta and sage, or sweetbreads with wild nettles, or split-pea soup with pig's ear croutons is a ribeye steak not eaten and a pork chop not ordered; a local, sustainably raised animal

enjoyed in its fullest. Menus, served at the wine bar in the back room, change weekly: a three-course tasting menu runs $25, and individual dishes are available for $9 a pop. We'll be the guy pounding down braised roosters' combs at the bar.

Palate Food + Wine: 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 662-9463.

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