Anaheim's M&M Donuts is about two and a half miles west of Disneyland Park, but the line that snakes outside it each night has been known to rival the switch-backing queue for Space Mountain. Some Yelpers claim to have waited as long as two hours for a box of the much-buzzed about blueberry glazed doughnuts. Not just any two hours, either — these are two hours spent standing around a dimly-lit parking lot in the middle of the night (Somewhat perplexedly, M&M doesn't open until 9 p.m. And no, that's not a typo. Last call for blueberry glazed is at 6 a.m.). It's enough to elicit Fastpass fantasies from even the most stalwart foodie.

No doughnut could be worth it, you're muttering into your laptop screen. How could it possibly be worth it?

The answer mostly depends on whether you think a two hour wait for Space Mountain is worth it. Because, in a way, that's exactly what an M&M's blueberry glazed doughnut is: A roller coaster; a two minute thrill ride of sugar and grease, as heart-pumping as any high-G turn. The sticky, sugary wallop of still-warm glaze. The perfect crunch of a crisply fried exterior yielding to moist, fluffy cake. The delicious heat of the thing, fresh out of the deep fryer — every batch is cooked to order. True, its blueberry bits look and taste like nothing actually grown in nature (we're talking 100% pure artificial flavor, folks), and yet somehow, that's just part of the fun.

However intense, the pleasure here is fleeting. Because, from the moment the counterman slides your doughnuts through the take out window in a charmingly dissonant pizza box, their magic has already begun to fade. In minutes, they'll have cooled to a totally unspectacular room temperature, and it's all over. Please keep your hands and feet inside the car until the ride comes to a complete stop.

Does it steal a little glamour away from these doughnuts if we share that the wait last Wednesday night was not two hours, but a still-formidable 45 minutes? Probably not. Because if you're the kind of person who's even considering hanging out in a parking lot in the middle of the night for a doughnut… Well, let's face it. You're not just in it for the doughnut.

You're in it for the ride.

M&M Donut: 1614 West Katella Ave., Anaheim, CA 92802. 714-490-0718.

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