Le Comptoir: At Tiara, Temporarily

3rd course3rd course, market vegetable plate; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold visits Gary Menes' Le Comptoir. (“Behind the counter at Tiara, Menes heats a small pot of oil and begins to fry experimental doughnuts he’s made from his bread starter, turning to his chefs for advice, and eventually tosses a perfect torus of dough with a bit of cinnamon sugar. He hands over a small slice. 'If someone had made doughnuts in front of me without offering me a bite, I’d be furious,' he says.”) Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Gone Tomorrow.”

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