Dear Mr. Gold:
Twenty-five colleagues from Seoul are coming to town in a couple of weeks, and I need a place to feed them. We are not a rich organization, but I want them to be impressed.
—Sam, Los Angeles
Koreatown, of course, is rich in restaurants that are practically designed for entertaining, with long tables, warrens of private rooms and arrays of panchan, appetizers, that stretch into the near horizon, not to mention a tolerance for exuberant toasting. I can’t imagine any delegation being unhappy with Chosun, Park’s or Tahoe, which are all on the upper end of the Korean-barbecue spectrum. But as good a time as your colleagues will have, they do, after all, have perfectly adequate Korean food at home. The one Los Angeles restaurant that all groups of visitors love without question, from Peruvian businessmen to squadrons of Michelin-starred chefs, is Lawry’s the Prime Rib. You may not have eaten at Lawry’s since your 17th birthday, but the spinning salad bowls, abundant Scotch, Yorkshire pudding and smoking slabs of meat are all it takes to convince many people that California is paradise on Earth. 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 652-2827.
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