It's easy to wish the Korean taco had never been invented; it's easy to get sick of the food-truck glut. But much of that goes by the wayside when you encounter the Kogi Truck, Roy Choi's fleet of food trucks that absolutely originated the former (the Korean taco) and went a long way to make the latter (the food truck) a staple of L.A. life. There are frivolities like the Sriracha chocolate bar, and other things that come off this truck that could benefit from an appetizer of bong hits. But in the spicy pile of kimchi and slaw on those tacos, in the heat and grease of the burritos, in the awesome smoosh and crunch of the Kogi dog, you can taste the honesty in the original enterprise: a Korean kid paying homage to the taco trucks that sustained him through his youth. Locations via website (kogibbq.com) or Twitter (@kogibbq). Tues.-Wed., noon-3 p.m. & 6-mid.; Thurs.-Sat., noon-3 p.m. & 6 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Menu items $2.29-$6. No alcohol.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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