As breakfast burritos gain ever more cultural currency, more and more L.A. restaurants are serving them, at all times of day. Some — OK, most — are pretty slapdash, but no one complains because breakfast burritos are often a requirement, not just a desire. But then there is the rare place that does them incredibly well.

Enter La Azteca Tortilleria. As can be deduced from the name, the restaurant's specialty is tortillas, which are available in bulk; huge flour monstrosities that contain enough flavor to eat on their own. But La Azteca also does good work with burritos. The chile relleno burrito is justly famous, but the “breakfast” options (available until the restaurant runs out of ingredients) deserve some shine of their own.

To start with, the tortillas are excellent, as discussed above. And they're griddled inside and out, creating a bit of texture and crunch not often associated with burritos. And then they're filled with protein, animal or vegetable, plus beans and salsa. You'll be asked if you want potatoes and cheese as well, and of course the answer is yes. The options are endless, another element La Azteca has over most other breakfast burrito purveyors. Try the chicken chorizo.

Grab a sidewalk table, stare at the church across the street, contemplate your life choices. This one, at least, is a home run.

4538 E. Cesar Chavez Ave., East Los Angeles. (323) 262-5977,

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