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Jonathan Gold And Michelle Huneven

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Hangover Helper

Birriera Chalio. Goat: The other, other, other white meat. If you’re in the mood for a lot of goat, practically goat by the yard, it might be difficult to do better than a long, goaty lunch among the mounted animal heads at the original Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, where......
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Liquid Love

Attari Sandwich Shop. On Fridays at Attari, ab-goosht, also called dizi, is the closest thing there is in the restaurant world to an automatic order, an intricate stew of lamb and vegetables and grain cooked for many hours and then mashed into a thick, homogeneous paste with the texture of......
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Smoking Joints

Angelini Osteria. Angelini Osteria is a loud, reasonably priced Italian café with reasonable versions of Roman trattoria classics. But man, can that kitchen smoke a sea bass. The newer, more formal La Terza seems closer to chef Gino Angelini’s sensibilities, but sometimes you crave the challenging textural complexities of smoked......
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Lobster

The Pilgrims, if historians are to be believed, ate ­lobster only when they had run out of eels. Dali took his lobster for walks. Marie-Therese Louise de Savoie-Carignan, Princess de Lamballe, fainted dead away when she saw her first lobster, not long before a Revolutionary mob paraded her severed head......
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Ribs

Baby Blues Bar-B-Q. There have been gun battles fought in the Carolinas between partisans of mustard-based barbecue sauce and those who prefer their pork doused with vinegar. Certain barbecue cooks in beef-loving Texas would just as soon throw your mother-in-law on the grill as a pork rib. But Baby Blues......
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Ice Cream

Great ice cream is pretty common in the Los Angeles area. We’ve got Austrian ice cream at Charlie Temmel, which may be the only taste this column and the current governor have in common. Also Ciao Bella, which makes fine gelato for several restaurants around the city. The estimable Dr......
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Patio Dining

Cha Cha Chicken. Although Cha Cha Chicken seems to operate mostly as a takeout stand, the patio off to the side is a pleasant place on a hot night. The cuisine is Caribbean poultry with attitude: a luscious, crisp-skinned bird gritty with spices and painted with dense, black sauce, slightly......
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Breakfast

Angélique Café. Down in the garment district, where Spring and Main streets converge, there’s a two-story café with a mansard roof and a patio that would be at home in any French town. Angélique is open for traditional French breakfasts (bread and pastries from Commereuc’s brother’s bakery, Pain du Jour)......
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Pizza

Angeli Caffe. Twenty years ago, Evan Kleiman’s caffe crystallized the affinity of Angelenos for casual Italian cooking — the spaghetti alla checca, roast chicken and minimally garnished pizza that a Sienese teenager might eat for dinner at the trattoria down the block on the nights his mother didn’t feel like......
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Diners

Beadle’s. When I was a child, my grandmother took us to Beadle’s, and it seemed a province of the elderly, a world buffered by wallpaper and carpeting, and piped-in organ music. We’d join the line in a long, wood-paneled hallway that had the feel of a tunnel or chute and......
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