Jonathan Gold And Michelle Huneven

Birriera Chalio. Goat: The other, other, other white meat. If you’re in the mood for a lot of goat, practically goat by the yard, it might be difficult to do better than a long, goaty lunch among the mounted animal heads at the original Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, where......

Attari Sandwich Shop. On Fridays at Attari, ab-goosht, also called dizi, is the closest thing there is in the restaurant world to an automatic order, an intricate stew of lamb and vegetables and grain cooked for many hours and then mashed into a thick, homogeneous paste with the texture of......

Angelini Osteria. Angelini Osteria is a loud, reasonably priced Italian café with reasonable versions of Roman trattoria classics. But man, can that kitchen smoke a sea bass. The newer, more formal La Terza seems closer to chef Gino Angelini’s sensibilities, but sometimes you crave the challenging textural complexities of smoked......

The Pilgrims, if historians are to be believed, ate ­lobster only when they had run out of eels. Dali took his lobster for walks. Marie-Therese Louise de Savoie-Carignan, Princess de Lamballe, fainted dead away when she saw her first lobster, not long before a Revolutionary mob paraded her severed head......

Angélique Café. Down in the garment district, where Spring and Main streets converge, there’s a two-story café with a mansard roof and a patio that would be at home in any French town. Angélique is open for traditional French breakfasts (bread and pastries from Commereuc’s brother’s bakery, Pain du Jour)......

Angeli Caffe. Twenty years ago, Evan Kleiman’s caffe crystallized the affinity of Angelenos for casual Italian cooking — the spaghetti alla checca, roast chicken and minimally garnished pizza that a Sienese teenager might eat for dinner at the trattoria down the block on the nights his mother didn’t feel like......

Beadle’s. When I was a child, my grandmother took us to Beadle’s, and it seemed a province of the elderly, a world buffered by wallpaper and carpeting, and piped-in organ music. We’d join the line in a long, wood-paneled hallway that had the feel of a tunnel or chute and......