We know what you're thinking — another pork-themed truck, really? Did someone find a new way to infuse bacon with more bacon? But before getting on your high hog, you should know that despite the pun-riffic name, Pigs Feet Under (@pigsfeetunder) has some unique tricks up its sleeve.

The menu is composed mostly of wraps and balls (once again, not exactly original). The Braised Pork Roll ($8) is essentially tender pulled pork drizzled with hoisin sauce, while the Al Pastor Roll ($8) features sliced pork shoulder saturated by a vinegary chile sauce that might not convert any taco aficionados but gets the job done.

The real gem of the Pigs Feet Under truck is the use of scallion pancakes instead of tortillas for wraps, which might excite anyone who's a fan of the Shandong beef rolls at 101 Noodle Express. Even more amazingly, they make the scallion pancakes to order, rolling out the dough and cooking them on a griddle so that they arrive hot, pliable and pleasantly chewy — like a fresh flour tortilla with some Chinese flair.

Pigs Feet Under Truck; Credit: G. Snyder

Pigs Feet Under Truck; Credit: G. Snyder

Combine everything together and you've got a wrap with surprising heft. The best part being that, unlike most wraps, where a stale cold tortilla functions as basically an edible napkin, the outer wrap at Pigs Feet Under is one of the best parts of the dish.

The balls are a bit more of a mixed bag — despite the addition of chorizo and lap cheong sausage (how's that for fusion?), the Gouda and Cheddar Mac n' Cheese Balls ($5) aren't bursting with as much spicy flavor as you might guess. The Sofkey Balls ($5), made with coarse-ground grits, andouille sausage, pepper jack and green onions, are a better bet, especially when combined with sweet-tangy tomato chutney.

Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook. Reach the author at gsnyder@laweekly.com or follow him on Twitter at @searchanddevour.

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