Eva is the sort of restaurant you never want to leave, not only in the sense that you want to linger over the plates of Wagyu beef and charred leeks, the bowls of fennel soup with raw spot prawns and toasted buckwheat, the perfectly ripe melon that chef-owner Mark Gold might suddenly decide to slice on the table before you for your dessert. You want to stay and admire the black-and-white Hans Gissinger photographs on the pale gray walls, the enormous bouquets of foraged herbs that spill out of the kitchen, the books and whatnot that decorate the stunningly gorgeous little restaurant. (You might feel like you've wandered into the last, best curio workshop on Beverly Boulevard.) Gold can add to this unwillingness to go home, as he's wont to emerge (cowboy hat, red espadrilles) from his kitchen, pull up a chair and start conversations between tables. Let him. It may be the most fun you've had at a fine-dining restaurant in a long time. You'll get your bill — pressed inside a vintage book like a wayward bookmark — soon enough. 7458 Beverly Blvd., W. Hlywd.; (323) 634-0700, evarestaurantla.com. Wed.-Sat., 6-9 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. & 5-9 p.m. Entrees $24-$39. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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