Dom Perignon's Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy returned to Los Angeles from Champagne on Wednesday night. He threw a party for about a thousand friends to celebrate the release of a special edition of Dom designed by David Lynch, who was not only the evening's special guest but was the chief architect of the party's interactive environments. Only in Hollywood would Hollywood's finest auteur of anxiety find a comfortable niche alongside the world's most celebratory beverage.
The evening had more than its share of cinematic touches, including a montage of Dom iconography anchored by images of the priest himself, and plenty more featuring Dom Perignon's inimitable shield, experienced by way of lasers, sparks, fire and mysterious vapors.
In one set-piece partygoers were ushered down an ill-lit, very Lynch-ian corridor, ominously filled with mist and lit only by blue runners, all shadows and fog.
Upon emerging from the void, you were handed Champagne, naturally — the vintage 2003, followed by the 2000 Rosé, and served a not-so-modest meal prepared by The Bazaar of veal loin and truffled risotto. A few of Lynch's more memorable cast members, Laura Harring and Grace Zabriskie among them, were strolling through the environment, along with many other celebrity tipplers — I saw Topher Grace, Thomas Jane, Shannyn Sossamon, Dmitri Martin, and Werner Herzog with his willowy Frau Lena — for whom free-flowing prestige cuvee Champagne is an obvious draw.
So, too, were the DJ set by Diplo and especially the set by The Kills, who closed the night just moments after the Rosé was poured and wands of foie gras cotton candy distributed.
Patrick Comiskey, our drinks columnist, blogs at patrickcomiskey.com and tweets at @patcisco. Have a spirits question for a future column? Ask him. Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook.