Much has been made of the only-in-L.A. health trend centered around nutrient-rich breakfasts: kale smoothies, quinoa bowls and various permutations of avocado on toast. But it’s important to note advances have been made in the opposite, slightly greasier direction, too. Fluffy scrambled eggs on brioche at Eggslut, the fried egg sandwich with bacon and kale at Gjelina Take Away, or the decadent truffled sausage creation at Chimney Coffee House in Chinatown. If you're the type that wakes up craving meat-egg-cheese, these are high times indeed.

The latest notable entrant in the breakfast sandwich arena is Division 3, a wood-paneled takeout window that took over the the former Tested.LA space in Glassell Park a few weeks ago and is owned by the team behind Habitat Coffee and Sunset Junction Coffee Shop. On the menu you’ll find like casual fare such as granola parfaits and French toast-in-a-cup for breakfast, or meatball sandwiches and Cobb salads for lunch. The chef is Matthew Dickson, who previously ran the health-focused FEED Body + Soul in Venice, though his food here comes with decidedly less of a New Age bent.

What you’re after at Division 3 are the palm-sized egg sandwiches, served on buttery, crumbly biscuits that Dickson bakes daily and fills with things such as fennel-cured salmon, house-made corned beef or grilled chorizo links and slices of ripe avocado. They're wrapped in brown paper, oozing molten cheese and “D3 special sauce,” a creamy chili condiment that lends a spicy zip. And yes, these sandwiches go for a mere $4 each, a pretty remarkable bargain when you consider the work that goes into them.

There’s a quaint and quiet patio in the back, which provides a wonderful place to meditate over a biscuit and coffee, although most customers seem content to grab their sandwiches and go. And why not? It wasn’t long ago that a cheap last-minute breakfast meant pulling into the drive-thru. Now, we have better options.

Division 3, 3329 Division St., Glassell Park;; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily.

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