Destroyer’s Uber Photogenic Food Is Ready for a Closeup

Anne FishbeinFood

Fresh peasFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peasFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeingooseberriesFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeingooseberriesFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeingooseberriesFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeingooseberriesFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinsmoked egg creamFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinradish; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinExterior of Destroyer in Culver City; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinRice porridgeFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinpuffed riceFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinpuffed riceFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinpuffed riceFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinpuffed riceFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinavocadoFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbeinbasil; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinA Destroyer chef crafting a culinary creation; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas; Credit: Anne FishbeinFresh peas, Job’s tears, gooseberries, frozen cream; Credit: Anne Fishbein
If you wanted to present a case study for the drastic revolution in the rules of the restaurant business, you might use the recent career of chef Jordan Kahn as Exhibit A. Specifically, you might compare and contrast his last venture — the flashy, ambitious Red Medicine — with his new restaurant, Destroyer. Much of Kahn's food is built on the premise of layers, in his flavors and also the literal way he builds dishes. Chicken confit comes in a wide bowl under a blanket of charred cabbage leaves and a flurry of cheese. The bottom layer is a mix of yogurt and hazelnuts, and the meaty, oily in-the-best-way-possible chicken combines with the cabbage funk and luxury of dairy and nuttiness of the hazelnuts for a dish that's just straight-up delicious, as well as being thrilling on a creative level.

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