Classic Mexican Made New at El Condor

Seafood cocktail with Dungeness crabSeafood cocktail with Dungeness crab

So there's queso with chorizo or mushrooms, but instead of an oozing morass of fake cheese, El Condor serves queso flameado in a cast-iron pan, bubbling and stretchy and about as refined as a vat of melted cheese can get. All the usual suspects are here — tacos, tortas, enchiladas, quesadillas — but they get an upgrade in both ingredients and technique. All photos by Anne Fishbein.

LA Weekly