The DMV field office near USC on South Hope might be the best DMV in Los Angeles. But that's not because the lines are any shorter, or the lighting any less raw. Instead, it has the distinct advantage of being across the street from the Mercado la Paloma — and there, in this garment factory–turned–community space, you'll find Gilberto Cetina's Chichen Itza, a stand with an impressive menu of Yucatecan specialties. You could fill yourself up on appetizers alone — panuchos, salbutes, kibi — but the pièce de résistance is the cochinita pibil. Shredded pork marinated in achiote, spices and sour orange and then cooked in banana leaves, it will arrive at your table flame-orange and topped with red onions pickled hot pink. A baton of warm tortillas also will be on the tray, but no one will blink twice if you start digging into that pork all on its own. 3655 S. Grand Ave., University Park; (213) 741-1075, chichenitzarestaurant.com. Mon.-Thurs. & Sun., 8 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Entrees $8-$11. No alcohol.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Advertising disclosure: We may receive compensation for some of the links in our stories. Thank you for supporting LA Weekly and our advertisers.