Butchers & Barbers Bridges the Gap Between Bar and Restaurant

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Butchers & Barbers' American bistro menu ranges from bar food — ultra thin fries with crisped sage, a killer burger that is as straightforward as it is delicious — to dishes that are downright artistic. A smoked trout comes over a smooth hummus made of celery root and is topped with flowerlike rounds of slivered radish and lush soft-boiled egg. It's the kind of dish that wouldn't be out of place at a restaurant far fancier than this, due to both its looks and its subtle pleasures.

In between the fussed-over seafood and the big steaks (there are a couple to choose from) are a number of clever vegetable dishes, including asparagus with burrata and anchovy butter, and lovable, addictive, smashed fingerling potatoes with house-made hot sauce and tonnato. Reyes is a dude who knows how to pair vegetables with slightly stinky fish products, to great effect. All photos by Anne Fishbein.

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LA Weekly