Dear Mr. Gold:
As a native New Yorker, I have yet to find a decent bagel west of the Hudson River. Most of the so-called bagels here don’t deserve to be called by that name. Is there anywhere in L.A. that sells something approaching a New York bagel: chewy on the outside, dense and a little tangy on the inside, boiled in malty water? Your answer will fill a big hole in the center of my culinary world.
Don’t kid yourself. There really aren’t decent bagels in Manhattan either, with the possible exception of the ones at Kossar’s. The sweet ’n’ puffy H&H syndrome has thoroughly infected the five boroughs — if you look hard enough, you may be able to find something better than Noah’s in Manhattan, but not a lot better.
That being said, in Los Angeles, Brooklyn Bagel Bakery stands out. The factory may have largely succumbed to the H&H thing too, which is a relatively new development, but if you go to the plant, just west of downtown, you can get the real thing: dense, chewy, crunchy hearth-baked bagels, boiled for proper tautness, that are really something else. 2217 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (213) 413-4114.
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