Biscuits are good, and biscuits split and stuffed with breakfast items are even better. That seems to be the entire philosophy of Division 3, a specialist of the morning meal. It's a good one. And it's working.

Division 3 opened first in Glassell Park, operating from a takeout window with a patio. The biscuits were instantly the star, and people came trekking for an item that L.A. is not generally known for. The restaurant now has a second location, on a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard that does not otherwise see a lot of culinary excitement.

The breakfast items are served only till 11 a.m. — there's a lunch menu too, which is perfectly lovely, but you want to get in early. You'll be in line with a bunch of P.A.s picking up food for their offices, but let me tell you: You don't want to eat these messy monsters in front of your boss. You'll never get a promotion. (And bosses will lose the respect of their subordinates. These things are saucy.)

The bacon, egg and cheese is a great option for testing out Division 3's goods. That and the other super-carnivorous sandwiches certainly get the most shine, but allow me to suggest an alternative: fennel-cured salmon, scrambled egg and chive crème fraîche. It's the best of Southern food and the best of deli food smashed together for pure culinary heaven.

Of course, all the options are pretty good. Skip dinner the night before and get two.

Credit: Katherine Spiers

Credit: Katherine Spiers

5907 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 745-0007,

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