You could eat a 100 percent vegetarian meal at Moruno and be totally satisfied, despite the fact that there's plenty of meat on the menu. There's a ton of meat-free fun to be had — the roasted butternut squash with dukkah deserves its own cheering section — but vegetable dish of the year goes to the rotisserie cabbage. Served with a creamy and tart pickled-mushroom yogurt, it comes blackened on the outside and soft on the inside, the leaves melting into a juicy wonder of funk and vegetal sweetness. It shows a whole new side of cabbage, and eating it is as wonderful as discovering that a beloved old friend has a mind-blowing talent you never knew about.

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