The humble cucumber, always the bridesmaid (never the bride), finally gets its day in the spotlight at Goldie's — but it undergoes a makeover akin to a full-body wax and scrub at a Korean spa. Chef Thomas Lin, inspired by the braised cucumbers of Julia Child's day, takes whole cucumbers and chars them on a wood and charcoal grill until the skin blisters and burns. Then Lin roughly chops them, tosses them in vinaigrette made with spring garlic oil, burned leek tops and cornhusks, and finally serves them in a bowl with a swipe of cool avocado mousse. To this pile of green goodness he adds shaved celery and garlic flowers. It's salty, sweet, charry, sour — and the best thing to happen to cucumbers since gin. 8422 W. Third St., Beverly Grove. (323) 677-2470, —Erin Lyall

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