There's a perverse logic to the existence of such a solidly authentic, uncompromisingly British food and novelties store in the far west San Fernando Valley. Many of the most conspicuous displays of Anglophilia occurred in far-flung colonies, halfway around the globe from the United Kingdom. So why not a slice of Great Britain in sunny, exotic Tarzana? From the strings of cheerful English flags and the red London phone booth to the British images adorning the walls, Oh Fancy That! lets you know its organizing principle straightaway. But then the mouth watering sets in: There are Green's Crumble, Jammie Dodgers and McVittie's Digestives, all names with a wondrous, Willy Wonka–ish splendor, and candy bars called Lion, Picnic and Yorkie. There are ceramic teacups in the shape of great historical Brits, tiny model sports cars, much-loved teas, canned and jarred prepared food items and a freezer full of yummy savory pies (steak & kidney, cottage) and Cornish pasties. British cuisine may not be high culinary art, but it does make for damn hearty comfort food. 18399 Ventura Blvd., Ste. 11, Tarzana. (818) 996-4405,

—Adam Gropman

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